Reading an inspection report without panicking.
A 40-page report listing 117 findings looks terrifying. Most of it is normal. Here's the framework for sorting the cosmetic from the negotiable from the actual deal-killers.
In this guide
1. What an inspection actually covers
A general home inspection in Maryland is a visual, non-invasive examination of the home's systems. The American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) Standards of Practice define what a qualified inspector observes: structural components, exterior, roof, plumbing, electrical, HVAC, interior, insulation/ventilation, and fireplaces [1].
What the inspection does not cover: behind walls, under floors, inside sealed systems, future life of components, or anything requiring specialized testing (radon, mold, lead, asbestos, septic dye, sewer scope, oil-tank scan). Each of those is a separate inspection with a separate report — and a separate price.
2. The four categories every finding falls into
| Category | What it means | How to think about it |
|---|---|---|
| Cosmetic | Paint, scratched flooring, cracked tile, worn caulk | You bought it; you'll address it. Not negotiation material. |
| Deferred maintenance | Old HVAC, aging roof, sagging gutters, dead caulk lines | Helpful for budgeting. Sometimes worth a credit on big-ticket items near end of life. |
| Material defect | Active leaks, failing electrical, structural movement, broken appliances | Real negotiation territory. Repair, credit, or price reduction. |
| Life-safety / latent | Active mold, knob-and-tube, missing GFCIs in wet areas, oil tank issues, structural failure | Repair or walk. These don't get papered over. |
3. Radon (a Maryland-specific issue)
Maryland sits in a high-radon region of the country. According to the EPA Map of Radon Zones, much of central Maryland falls in Zone 1 or Zone 2 — Zone 1 representing predicted average indoor screening levels above 4 pCi/L, the EPA's action threshold [2]. Baltimore City and Baltimore County are in the higher-risk categories; Anne Arundel sits in Zone 2 [2].
EPA's official recommendation: "all homes should be tested, regardless of zone designation" [2]. A standard radon test runs ~$150–$250. If results exceed 4 pCi/L, mitigation systems typically run $1,000–$2,500 — often a clean concession ask in negotiations rather than a walk-away.
4. Lead-based paint (pre-1978 homes)
Federal law (Title X, 24 CFR Part 35) requires lead-based paint disclosure on every pre-1978 residential sale [3]. The seller must give you the EPA-approved pamphlet "Protect Your Family From Lead in Your Home" and a 10-day window to inspect for lead (unless mutually waived).
If you're buying in a pre-1978 home in Maryland (the majority of Baltimore City rowhomes, many Anne Arundel and PG County mid-century homes), get the lead inspection. Encapsulated lead paint in good condition is generally manageable; peeling/chalking lead in a home where children will live is a serious health concern and a meaningful negotiation point.
5. The four findings I never let a buyer ignore
- Active water intrusion. Stained ceilings, moisture in basements, efflorescence on foundation walls. Water is the most expensive long-term problem in a house — diagnose the source before closing.
- Electrical hazards. Knob-and-tube, aluminum branch wiring, double-tapped breakers, missing GFCIs in wet areas, evidence of DIY work. Most homeowner insurance carriers won't write a policy with active knob-and-tube — verify before assuming you can finance it.
- Roof or structural movement. Sagging ridges, separating joints, foundation cracks wider than ⅛", visible settlement. Always worth a follow-up by a structural engineer if the inspector flags any of these.
- Underground oil tanks (common in older MD homes). If the home was ever heated by oil, ask whether the tank is still buried. Maryland MDE regulates abandoned tanks; soil contamination from a leaking abandoned tank can cost tens of thousands to remediate.
Have an inspection report you want a second read on?
Send it over — I'll mark up what's worth pushing on and what's not.
Send Your Report →6. How to negotiate after the report
You generally have three tools, often used in combination:
- Repair request. Seller fixes the items before closing. Best for items where you want quality controlled (a roof repair you can verify).
- Closing credit. Seller credits dollars toward your closing costs equal to the negotiated cost. Best for big items where you want the choice of contractor.
- Price reduction. The sale price drops by the negotiated amount. Mechanically similar to a credit, but affects your loan-to-value and may require lender re-approval.
Don't ask for everything. A seller looking at a five-page repair addendum hears "this buyer is going to find a new problem every week." Lead with the material-defect and life-safety items. Skip the worn caulk.
Sources
- ASHI Standard of Practice — American Society of Home Inspectors — https://www.homeinspector.org/Resources/Standard-of-Practice (accessed 2026-06-15)
- "EPA Map of Radon Zones — Maryland" — U.S. EPA — https://www.epa.gov/sites/default/files/2014-08/documents/maryland.pdf (accessed 2026-06-15)
- "Real Estate Disclosures about Potential Lead Hazards" — U.S. EPA — https://www.epa.gov/lead/real-estate-disclosures-about-potential-lead-hazards (accessed 2026-06-15)
- Maryland Department of the Environment — Oil Control Program — https://mde.maryland.gov/programs/Land/OilControl/Pages/index.aspx (accessed 2026-06-15)
This guide is general information for Maryland real estate consumers and is not legal advice. Home-inspection findings vary by property; consult a licensed home inspector and, where appropriate, a structural engineer, environmental specialist, or licensed contractor before negotiating or walking from a contract. Evan Kundrat is a Maryland-licensed real estate salesperson (Lic. #5003434) at Keller Williams Flagship of Maryland (Designated Broker: Barry Hess, Lic. #517943). Equal Housing Opportunity.